#Marzocchi drop off 3 manual manual

Since the fork is already out of the frame, be sure to regrease the headset and steerer tube.

Pump the fork back up, check for leaks and wipe any extra oil off. If not, take the cap back off and take a little oil out, if you want to reduce the travel put a little more oil in. Cycle through the fork's travel a few times and make sure you're getting the amount of travel you want. If you have a torque wrench tighten to 20 Nm, if not, just tighten them up without overdoing it. Put a little grease around the seals and put the topcaps back in.

#Marzocchi drop off 3 manual manual

Now fill up the oil to the correct height (I forget how much that is, check the online manual at Marzocchi's website). Extend the fork and compress it slowly to get all the air out. The oil should be about 4 cm from the top of the stanchions when compressed. Check the seals and caps for damage again.įully compress the forks and fill them up with the oil you chose. Wipe the fork as much as you can to get the oil out. Extend and compress the fork a few times (while upside down) to make sure you get all the old oil out. Turn the fork upside down to drain all the oil out.

Take a wrench and back the top caps out of the crown. Check the seals carefully, replace them if neccesary. Clean the valves out and check them for damage. Pop the caps off the top of your fork and let the air out of the valves slowly (oil is probably going to spray out, so you may want to cover the valves with a cloth or something). You can also spray the whole thing with WD40 to make sure you got all the water and dirt. Clean the fork thoroughly, especially around the seals and topcaps, this is to make sure that you don't inadvertantly get dirt into your internals. It's easier to take the fork out of the frame to work on it, and pop the brakes off. You can bring it to a shop and do it, or do it yourself in about 20 to 40 minutes. You can buy motorcycle fork oil much more cheaply and it's the same as specific bike fork oil. The fork ships with 7.5 wt oil if I remember correctly. If you would like the fork to be a little stiffer with slower rebound than you can use a heavier weight oil, or if you want it to be a little more plush with faster rebound you can used a lowe weight oil. The fork oil also begins to break down and turn foamy, which will in turn mess up your dampening control. When the fork is exposed to changes in temperature condensation can be introduced to the fork, which will hold back the performance of the fork. Why couldn't Marzocchi have just specified the size of the rod in the literature? It would have saved me a lot of time, I have been searching on the internet for hours trying to find the right size.Click to expand.You should change the fork oil every six months or so. Does anyone have one or remember the size? If I recall correctly, it was about 3mm or so, but I'd like to know before I start cutting/welding all my allen keys. The problem is that in my last move across the country, I have somehow lost that 'hexagonal rod.' I really need to crank up the damping on this fork and I figure I can just weld a piece of allen wrench on the end of a piece of metal rod to get in there and do it.the only problem is, I don't know what size that 'hexagonal rod' is. Anyway, since I bought it new, I have always had the user manual and the 'hexagonal rod' they supply to adjust the damping.

I too, have a Marzocchi Z.1 Wedge (mine is an 01 model) and I bought it new on a Diamondback Reactor Dual (which I promptly sold) and I put the fork and most of the components on my Ellsworth Specialist. Hey all, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I think this is the right place to post this.